The New York Times Reviews Tomatoland

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Jonathan Lethem has seen the future of agribusiness, and that future is strange. In his novel “Girl in Landscape” (1998), he imagined humans inhabiting a new planet where meals grow inside “potatoes” that can be planted and harvested. Among the flavors: meat, cake and tea. “Fish,” one character announces, as if he were Ferran Adrià, “is the weirdest one.”

South Florida, where nearly all of America’s winter tomatoes are grown, is nearly as alien an environment for farming. It’s insane that tomatoes are grown there at all, Barry Estabrook writes in his delectable and angry new book, “Tomatoland.” This volume simmers like a big, bright kettle of heirloom tomato sauce.

READ THE REST OF DWIGHT GARNER’S REVIEW

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